The Yaktrack - Bikepacking Adventure in Eastern Tibet

1468 km

50km / Day

21'666 m

55% offroad

Since the 2008 Olympics, Tibet has become inaccesible for individual cyclists. But this is no reason to hang your head. The Tibetan culture includes, in addition to the closed TAR, the old provinces of Kham and Amdo, which are today often described as Eastern Tibet. 60% of the Tibetan population live here and insiders believe that the Tibetan culture could be preserved and developed better than in the restrictive TAR. On dirtroads, singletracks and hikingtrails, you are exploring regions that have seen only a few Western visitors. You meet the proud Khampas with their cool cowboy hats and nomad women with jade jewelry in their black hair. Small monasteries, important Buddhist pilgrim centers, yak hair tents of the Golok nomads and more than twenty passes over 4000m are on your way. The Yak Track is a superlative bikepacking route.

Route / Terrain South

The Yak Track starts in Waku / Benzila. Riding on the G214 you can reach the starting point either from the eastern Shangri La (Zhongdian) or from the western Deqin. When you dump down to the Jinsha (Yellow) River, the track branches off to the north in the small town of Waku / Benzila on a narrow, traffic-free asphalt road. After Ciwa there are two first higher passes on dusty dirtroads, perfect for altitude acclimatization. After Bomi the real stuff starts. A steep climb on a barely used dirtroad takes you up to a pass from which you get first grandiose glimpses into the Chola Mountains. The following descent on singletrails is pure bikepacking joy. After another pass, you reach Litang on 4000m, the "capital" of the Khampa Cowboys - an important supply point and a good place for some rest days.

After a few easy kilometers on the Tibet-Sichuan Highway G318 you turn northwards and follow a small tar road, which first changes into a dirt road and later into a trail on a wide high plaine (muddy in spring). From here you can reach the fascinating pilgrimage village Yachen Gar via another pass. Yachen is one of the most active Buddhist centers in the world and every morning tens of thousands of nuns and monks flock to the main monastery to listen to the teachings of Guru Achuk Rinpoche. Unfortunately, it's never sure whether Yachen Gar is open to foreigners or not. We were registered by the police and then allowed to stay. But we also know of other Western visitors who have been rejected. We assume the chances are better if you reach Yachen on our trail from south as if you are coming from the north across the main road.

Shortly after Yachen Gar you reach the heart of the Yak Track South. To the west you follow narrow motorcycle trails and the trekking route through the Chola Mountains to Dege. Two of the six passes on this section are hike-a-bike connections. The downhills on singletrails are always good to ride and a lot of fun. With the city of Dege, home of the famous printing center, you reach another stage and the first hot shower for days.

After Dege the Yak Track follows instead of the Tro La Pass, the main crossing of the Tibet-Sichuan Highway G317 over the Chola Mountains, a northeastern route over the unpaved Le La Pass and in good conditions a gravel / singletrail alternative route to the Muri La Pass (G213). Always with fantastic views of the Chola mountain's main ridge. In spring or by bad weather you can avoid this section by riding the main road over Muri La. Manigange is the last stop before you reach the city of Gansi via a final, nameless pass - or alternatively you follow the Yak Track North to the Tibetan Plateau.

Route / Terrain North

In the north of Sichuan Province, the landscape changes dramatically. The glaciated peaks and deep valleys give way to a gently undulating plateau landscape. You are now riding almost the whole time over 4000m. The sky is close, the weather unstable, the climate rough. Over dirtroads, narrow concrete tracks and a short singletrail section you reach Bayiu in Qinghai province and the dramatic mountains of Niempo Yurtse. The rugged granite rocks and crystal clear mountain lakes make this stage another highlight of the Yak track. After a perfect start on singletrail you need to hike over a pass to the neighboring valley. A tough, but fantastic hike-a-bike stretch, for which you have to count a full day. Take a backpack with you to carry some of the luggage at your back. A good dirtroad, which changes to a tar road, leads you from Niempo Yurtse down to Aba.

Tip: From Aba it's possible to reach Ma'erkam / Barkam in five bus hours. Here, in May 2017, we were able to get a visa extension on the spot.

Due to altitude acclimatization, wind direction and the hike-a-bike (28km) / singletrail (88km) sections, we recommend riding the Yak Track from south to north.

Infrastructur / Logistic

For the route Shangri La - Manigange we needed 18 full riding days. For the northern part from Manigange to Aba another 10 riding days.

In the cities of Shangri La, Litang, Dege and Aba you will find hotels of good Chinese standards, ATMS and shopping options with a wider choice. In the small places it has usually a shop, but besides instant noodles and biscuits they are very limited. However, it's often possible to stay in homestays and eat there (see waypoints). In terms of supply, the route is easy; you rarely have to carry more than two or three days of provisions. Water is available in streams, a form of water treatment is mandatory. It is easy to wild camp.

The city of Bayju (Yak Track North) was closed for foreigners in May 2017, as was the city of Banma (south of Duogongma / Bayju), which is not directly on the Yak Track. We were able to spend two days in Bayju despite the ban - the miserable weather helped us in the negotiations with the police.

Chinese road construction is accelerating rapidly. It may well be that paths, which were still tracks or singletrails, are paved or concreted in a few years. Please send us your updates.

Difficulty

On a route of 1468 kilometers you cross 23 passes over 4000m. Even in the best travel period from April to May and September to October, the climate is harsh. In addition to the altitude and the strenuous route, cold, wind, snow and rain sap energy. The accommodation is simple and mostly without western toilets and running water. Often you camp. It can be that parts of the region are unpredictably blocked by the police. To enjoy the Yak Track, you need the ability to deal with most simple and unpredictable conditions. If you can get engaged, you will be rewarded with unforgettable encounters in a culturally extremely interesting region.

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